Phone calls between my home in Hermanus and that of fellow pilgrim, Brenda, are more frequent and more anxious.  Very relieved to have my passport with the required visa in hand I am horrified that I have only 1 entry to Estados Schengen.  Now I know I will be allowed to set foot in Portugal and start my journey to Santiago de Compostella.  But, will customs refuse entry on my return from Spain to Portugal?  Why are all my previous visas for multiple entry when I was also only moving withing the Schengen states?  Questions, questions, questions… There are so many Camino questions.

The panic fades after a few discussions and then elevates when I can’t find an extra light sleeping bag.  Due South is sold out and Cape Union Mart only has stock in Gauteng.  Thank goodness for a backup.

When I am sample typical Portuguese fare ahead of my journey there is no hint of any distress.  The way Anton Verhoogt prepares sardines at Fisherman’s Cottage in Hermanus is simply to die for. Perfectly cooked – plain, simple and salty.  Firm but easily separated from the bone.  I look forward to seeing how the Portuguese holds up.